A speakeasy turned inside out: this is Momofuku alum Daniel Burns’ new concept Luksus (Danish for “luxury”). Nestled inside the Greenpoint favorite Tørst, Luksus is a Scandinavian spin on the biergarten. For a back room, the space is light and airy, and the food is all clean lines, too. A week after the opening, Chef Burns dishes about taking a leap of faith and drinking to it.
Why did you decide to partner with Tørst for this new venture?
It seemed like a good opportunity not only for the neighborhood but also a really great opportunity to do something with beer. I think it’s just a natural thing to pair beer with food. A lot of people are getting interested in it and wanting to learn more about it.
So you’re a Greenpoint fan?
I’ve lived in the city four years, and I moved right to Greenpoint. It’s my neighborhood.
Did you approach Tørst or did they come to you?
It got started when world-renowned “gypsy brewer” and beer consultant Jeppe was trying to look for someone to make a beer bar. After finishing at Momofuku I knew the next thing I would do was my own spot, so it was good timing for everyone involved.
Jeppe pairs beers for every menu item. Do you think about making your food beer-friendly?
Trying to think of pairing with a certain beer would be super difficult, so I make the menu based on seasonality and experimentation, and then we do the beer afterwards.
What’s on the menu right now?
I want to try to change the menu quite frequently, every 4 or 5 weeks. Right now when you sit down there are three snacks—it’s good to start the menu with snacks that you eat with your hands. There’s a ham-flavored chip I stumbled upon. And the dessert is with rhubarb and beets. That one’s funny: it’s paired with Blåbaer, which is actually the word for blueberry in Danish, so it’s a blueberry beer and it’s also kinda a joke on Justin Bieber. I want to change a few things already—corn and blueberries are really coming up, and peppers. A corn and blueberry dessert and beef tartare with peppers.
What’s your favorite beer?
I like IPAs, and I like sour beers—a lot of it’s a seasonal thing. In the summer you want to drink the lighter ones.
Jeppe’s paired the following snacks and swigs. Pick out your favorite flavors to pair at home!
Ham & Vinegar Chip, Mussel & Dulse, Carrot & Beet + Mikkeller’s It’s Alive! Rhubarb (Belgian wild ale)
Radish with Razor Clam, Cucumber and Bone Marrow + Evil Twin’s Femme Fatale Brett (American IPA)
Braised Little Gem with Chanterelle, Pea Broth and Egg + Evil Twin’s Noma Juniper (dark)
Lamb with Sunchoke and Lamb Tongue Salad + Rodenbach Grand Cru (red ale)
Rhubarb with Beet, Pea, and Anise + Evil Twin’s Justin Blåbaer (blueberry, Bieber)
Luksus, 615 Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint.
By Allison Malecha
Photo Credit: Signe Birck